Thursday, January 31, 2013

Chile Chile Chile [Part III]


To Pucon, we go!


Lago Villarica. Almost to Pucon!

We arrived in Pucon on Christmas day. We found our lovely little hotel and got settled in for the night (and yes, it was a thousand times better than the one before). We took a little rest, and wandered around the town for a bit. Pucon is such a beautiful and picturesque little mountain town! It reminded me of somewhere back home in the mountains, only there were a million more trees, and volcanoes in the distance. Lake Villarica was just to the west, and the town was perfectly nestled in the hills, with hydrangeas in every color as far as the eye could see!  It was cool and rainy when we got into town, but we were excited to learn that the next few days would be dry and warm! That night, we drove to the thermal pools for a little Christmas relaxation. Maybe it was a combination of our tired bodies, the cold air outside with the hot air inside, and the smell of sandalwood filling the air, but it was such a magical place! The hot indoor pools welcomed us and we relaxed next to the wood-burning fireplace. There were also outdoor pools, which were lovely to sit and listen to the frogs croaking in a nearby pond. When our bodies were pruny, we drove back to town and discovered that our favorite little restaurant, Cassi's, was conveniently located a block from our hotel! We enjoyed our takeout Christmas meal of pizza {**Made with heart of palm--I'd never had that before, and OMG you guys, I have been missing out on heart of palm my whole life!!!}, quinoa salad, chocolate cake, and a lovely local bottle of wine.

Our new hotel was a major upgrade from the last!

Driving to the thermal pools at sunset

We saw these cute little lambs!

But apparently, they did not want their photo taken! They all got up and stood with their butts toward us, haha!
Inside the thermals
aren't we so cute with our little swimcaps?
 
Happy girls on Christmas night

The next morning, Glory Hallelujah, Sunshine!!! Megan and I went for a lovely little run around the lake's edge, and after breakfast, we set out to see what kind of adventures we could find. We decided on doing the famous volcano hike, and a canopy zip line tour! I had never done a zip line before, and it was SO FUN!! I really enjoyed it! It was a canopy tour, with several runs of cables. I loved every second of soaring through the trees and over a river. I tend to get a nervous giggle, and it sometimes takes over.... So I'm pretty sure I was giggling like a weirdo on each and every cable run. The thrill of just simply zipping through the air and waiting to be stopped by a tree on the other end was as fun as you can imagine :) The only disappointment I had, was that the duration of the adventure wasn't nearly as long as we were led to believe.
The final zip line
I dominated that zip line.




Cuties.
 As soon as we got back into town, we grabbed some dinner and went to Patagonia Adventures to collect our gear for our big hike the next morning. We were a very random group of people: the three of us girls, a family from Brazil (who looked more like Russians, so we called them the Russian Portuguese Brazilians) and a brother & sister from Georgia. We were all getting sized for shoes and pants, when in walked in a couple of beautiful and tall men, who were so striking, Megan decided that they had to be from Argentina.  One of them was the definition of tall dark and handsome, with the most beautiful olive skin tone and short dark hair, while the other was just as handsome but had long, shaggy blondish hair. They sat on a bench on the opposite side of the room, and I couldn’t help but stare. Obviously these good looking guys were so out of my league, I wouldn’t even think about trying to talk to one of them….so I just sat and stared, and admired them from across the room.

Volcan Villarica

We finished up our gear check and headed back to our hotel for a good night sleep. It was early to rise, and I must admit, I was a little nervous for this hike up the volcano. We packed our lunches and had a quick breakfast, and were out the door to meet up with our group. We loaded up the van, and before I knew it, we were at the base of the trail of our beautiful volcano. And so began our hike.....

Getting started!


It's starting to get real.

We put on our first layers, and headed up the mountain. For the first section of the hike we actually had to take the ski lift up to the ice trail. At that point, we got assembled with our ice picks and crampons. And started walking up, up, up. I was getting used to the weight of the pack, and the crampons on my feet, and feeling good and fit. Afterall, I've hiked up a mountain a time or two :)

Our first rest break. That's Argentina over there to the far right!
Up, up and up!


We stopped for our first break, and the guide (I'm so sad I can't remember his name) pointed out the different landscapes over the horizon, and said "That over there is Argentina!" I gushed and exclaimed that I would really love to visit Argentina sometime, and he said very matter of factly, "Well, those two guys at the back of the group are from Argentina....make friends with them, maybe they'll take you." (*We knew it!) I laughed it off, but then at the next break, he called over to one of them and asked, "Hey, when are you guys going home? She wants to go with you!" as he pointed at me.
The blonde one smiled and said, "Domingo."
"Did you hear that? They are leaving Sunday".
I blushed and laughed, and said, "Oh, if only I were staying longer, but I leave tomorrow". Shoot!! By our third break, after a longer rest and a bite to eat, it was apparent that we were getting close to summit. The air was thinning out, and you could faintly feel the burn of the sulfur burning in the back of your nose. The hike was becoming increasingly more difficult as far as the ice was concerned. At this point, we began to lose people in our group, who couldn't continue any further. We were on the glacier by this time, and the snow was very hard; and I am not gonna lie I was pretty terrified myself. As far as difficulty was concerned, I have definitely been on much more physically challenging hikes in the mountains here in Colorado, but the element of the ice and wind was completely throwing me off! At one point, we were walking on a ledge of ice, and it felt like it was so steep, that one false step or gust of wind, and I was going to fall right of the edge of this darn volcano! But thank goodness that part did not last long, and low and behold, to the disbelief of my very own eyes, I was on top of a [MF] volcano!!! It was so beautiful and surreal, I can't even describe it! The burn of the sulfur in the air was very distinct, almost like pepper spray. But the sights of both the smoke rising out of the crater, and the views all around were simply breathtaking! (I guess for more than one reason, haha) We gawked around for while, amazed that just a few hours before, we were in town where the rest of the people were walking around in shorts and t-shirts, and here we were on a glacier covered volcano. Dang. It is by far the most awesome thing I've ever done. {I liked it better than running a marathon.}

"Harry, We've reached the top!"

[Most of] Our Group at the top!
Feeling on top of the world!

Steam coming out of the crater

Woah. I can't believe I'm staring down a crater of a volcano!

It was getting colder, so we finished up our lunch, and put on the rest of our snow gear, and prepared for the part I was dreading the most.....coming down. Oy.
This was the second time I was terrified, and for sure thought I was going to die. We didn't have very far down to walk to the flat spot, but oh my goodness, I think my blood pressure was sky high, and I was sweating bullets. Thankfully our guide, Diego, was kind enough to hold my hand and help me down those several meters of torture! haha.  I didn't even care, and I wasn't even one bit embarrassed as I was clearly being mocked by a couple other guides leading their group up the mountain, that I was being taken down like a child by our guide. I'm sure Diego was less than impressed with me, and at the very least, super annoyed, but I was beyond grateful!!!! So once we reached the flat spot, I'm thinking to myself, oh dear lord, this is going to be a long hike down.... But we were instructed to take off our crampons, and put on this diaper-like thing made out of snow pants material, and we strapped on a little plastic round sled to ourselves, and we sled the whole way down! At first, I was thinking, you have to be joking... But one by one in a single file line, we actually sled the entire way down and it was the funnest thing I've ever done! It put all my winter days of sledding and tubing to shame! Unfortunately we weren't able to take pictures of this, so you'll just have to take my word for it. But it was awesome.  Once we got to dry land, it was just a little bit of a hike back down to our van, and we were peeling off our sweaty layers of snow gear. I looked around and somehow I had gotten a bit separated from Megan and Andrea, and found myself walking next to the blonde Argentinian. He was even more beautiful up close! He introduced himself as Gerardo, and we struck up a conversation, (broken English, and broken Spanish). He told me he and his friend were from Mendoza, and were on holiday in Chile. When I asked what he did for work, he informed me that he worked on his family's vineyard. You've got to be kidding me.... and that his friend, Javier, worked at a different vineyard. Of course. I mean, come on! What do you even say to that?! "Um, hi, I'm Vanessa, and I am a dental hygienist from Colorado and this is my first time out of the country by myself...." I felt like I was wayyyy out of my playing field. LOL. But Gerardo was very nice, almost even shy, and for some reason, he seemed a bit interested. He invited me and my two girlfriends over to their cabin that evening for a BBQ. We absolutely accepted the invitation, and I was secretly giddy the whole van ride back to the Patagonia Adventures office.
Wow. We were just at the top of that beautiful thing.


We were all greeted back at the office to a lovely spread of snacks; pastries, cookies, crackers, coffee, juice, and beer. We all sat around the table and toasted with a beer. I don't know if it was dehydration, exhaustion, lack of real food, or a combination of all of the above, but I was feeling pretty good after that one beer. We all chatted and laughed, and made friends with one another. Our guide Diego, also accepted the invitation to the asada at Javier and Gerardo's cabana. The guys gave us directions to their cabana, and we promised to meet them about 9pm. We got up to leave, and in typical South American fashion, we kiss-kissed one another on each cheek with a "chau", and I don't even know how this happened...perhaps it was the buzz from the beer... but I had every intention of saying, "Mucho Gusto" and instead what came out was, "Me gusta" as I was kissing Gerardo's cheek. Oh my god. Did that really just happen?! I just told the really hot guy from Argentina "I like you?! You did not just say that. In terrible Spanish, no less... I'm sure I turned a million shades of red, but tried to blame it on my poor language barrier. Oh dear. Hahahaha. At least I can laugh at myself!! (In fact, I'm laughing again right now by myself, as I'm recalling this minor embarrassment..... :)

So the girls and I returned to our hotel for a quick rest before we drove out to the thermal pools again for one last night of relaxation. This was just what the doctor ordered. We enjoyed soaking our bones in the warm pools, but somehow they had lost their magic from the first night we went....perhaps it was because the sun was out, and there were a lot of little kids around. Oh well, we enjoyed it nonetheless. We drove back into town for a quick stop at the market for something to take to the asada. What do you bring to a party hosted by men who make their own wine?? We settled upon beer and baked goods :) We showered and changed, and essentially I was transformed from the sweaty rough lookin thing from earlier in the day, to a somewhat more put-together me. We called a cab and found our way.

We arrived at their cabana and were warmly welcomed. Javier was in charge of the grill, and he had a variety of beef, pork, and lamb....basically Megan's (vegetarian) worst nightmare. He also made pimiento (I think that's what he called them) which was a red bell pepper cut in half, with an egg dropped inside and cooked on the grill. It was so simple and delicious! We ate and drank several glasses/bottles of wine from each of their wineries. We chatted and laughed and continued to get to know one another. It was very interesting to watch these men become more outgoing. At first, they seemed so very shy, almost stand-offish. At the beginning of the evening, they mostly spoke in Spanish, stating they didn't know English very well, but as the night progressed, I was amazed at how well they each really did speak English, and how much more relaxed and chatty they got! It was fun learning and teaching eachother different things from our languages and cultures. As with any good party, I'm never really quite sure how and when it happens, but the next thing I knew, we had progressed from wine to mixed drinks....and the party continued into the night.

Argentine spread
Wine from Javier's winery
My new friend, Javier. Salud!

Gerardo, Me, Javier. Dang, I'm a lucky girl!
Megan and Andrea gettin the party started!

The progression of our night: 1.Private wine with no label (from Gerardo's winery)  2.Champagne  3.Mixed drinks. Uh oh....
I was loving every minute of this company, and I was dreading the thought that the very next day, or rather, within the next few hours, I would be leaving to go back to Colorado. I was having the time of my life in South America, with great friends and beautiful men, how could I leave this?! It was a lovely dream, one in which I never wanted to wake from. But that didn't stop time and reality. At 3:00 am, the night had come to an end. We said goodbye's with promises to visit our respective countries,  called our cab and went back to our hotel in a drunken state of bliss. I could do this my whole life, I thought as I drifted off into one last South American slumber.

I was lucky if I got a full three hours of sleep before I had to be up the next morning for the longest day of my life. {Not exaggerating.} Like the 'responsible' adult I was at that time, I still had to pack the contents of my exploded belongings into two carry on bags and my suitcase. Oy. Thank goodness my makeup was actually still kind of decent looking from the night before, so I didn't even bother with getting ready. I shoved everything as best as I could into my bags. We ate breakfast together one last time, and I hugged Andrea goodbye (with a promise to come visit her in New Zealand), and before I was ready for it all to end Megan and I were on the road to Temuco. It was about an hour and a half drive to the airport. I was fighting off the waves of nausea from the adult beverages consumed mere hours before the drive. When we got to the teeny tiny airport, Megan waited with me until I got checked in and ready to board. I hugged her goodbye, and tried to keep it together, but my tears betrayed me. I was overcome with the sadness of leaving not only such a wonderful holiday, but also, leaving a girl who has become such a wonderful and loving friend. Everything she has done for me from the kindness of her heart, is something that does not go unnoticed, or taken for granted with me. I hugged her tightly, and wiped away my tears as we said one last chau-chau. I pulled it together, and waited for my plane to take off, and continue the last part of my journey alone.

The flight to Santiago was short, about 2 hours. It was the most spectacular view the entire way, traveling parallel above the Andes. At first, I was stunned and excited as I saw the volcano that I had summited 24 hours ago, from an aerial view, only to realize; no, there are lots of volcanoes everywhere!! I mean, it should go without saying, as southern Chile is called the Ring of Fire for a reason; but having never seen anything like it before, it was a completely unreal thing to observe one after another....after another. There was even an active one, that you could see the smoke pouring out of, off in the distance! I was intrigued and had my nose glued to the tiny window the entire way!! So much for a nap.






I could not get enough of the view outside my window!!
Wow! I got the bird's-eye view of smoke rising out of that volcano!


Alas, I was back in Santiago. I wasn't very thrilled to be here, as I didn't have the fondest of memories from the last time...but I had a new attitude, a new sense of empowerment, and heck, almost an entirely new grasp on the language! I was feeling like the HBIC.

I had a 9 hour layover (YUCK!) and I had every intention of going out and exploring the city for a bit. My plan was to check my bags, (I had a lot more stuff than I came with...and I couldn't be lugging 3 bags all around the city...) and then take a cab downtown. I was really excited about this! But it never happened. First of all, believe it or not, it took me an hour just to find the main terminal in the airport, from the domestic area I had flown into [I also may or may not have had a Starbucks break during that time for one last cafe con leche]. I remembered that Megan had pointed out to me, that a.) Chile is very lacking in the way of directional signs, and b.) if you ask a Chilean directions, they will just tell you somewhere to go, even if they really don't know the answer! And I found out first hand, that both of those are very true. You would think, that there would be signs in the domestic terminal, on how to get to the main terminal. I was searching and searching, but the only signs I saw were to baggage claim and the exit. I really wanted to be able to find this on my own, so I literally walked from one end to the other, and covered all three levels of the airport, trying to find my way. I finally conceded and asked for directions. Well, it took me asking 2 different people before I was able to find my way. (Turns out, I had to go through the baggage claim exit and go into a different elevator to get to the main terminal.) So an hour later, I found where I needed to be. At that point, I was trying to find the American Airline's station to get info on checking my bags. I asked a man, and he pointed in a general direction. Well, it was, of course the wrong direction. Ugh. So I walked back the other way, and asked someone more official looking. My bubble was busted. The reason I couldn't find the American Airlines station, was because it didn't exist until 3 hours before flight departure. I had a 10:50pm flight. So much to my dismay, I was forced to sit and wait. and wait. and wait. I tried to make the most of it by seeking out a comfy corner in the one cafe' that was available, but I could only manage to stay there for so long. Unfortunately, there was no comfortable place to go in the main terminal, all the seating, restaurants, and bars were on the other side of security. So I managed to squeeze in the corner of a small waiting area, with all my stuff and take the most uncomfortable nap of my life. I think I got an hour or two of shut eye. After hours of people watching and practicing my Spanish with neighboring people, I finally made it to the ticket counter, passed through security (and had all my booze confiscated....seriously) and found out that in order to take alcohol out of the county, it had to be purchased at the duty-free shop. So I bought one last souvenir of Chilean wine, and finally I was on board. It was by the good grace of God, I had a window seat with no neighbor on the long flight home! I took some sleeping pills, sprawled out, and was out for the count! We arrived in Dallas about 6:30 the next morning, and I felt like a pro going through customs and immigration this time :) But I was so out of it. I had no idea what day it was, what time it was, and I even answered in Spanish with the man at the customs line looked at my ticket and asked if Denver was my final destination. It was almost a very surreal thing to be back in the US. I made it to my next gate, only to find that our flight was delayed....3 Hours!!! This was my worst nightmare! I have a bad habit of over committing myself, and that afternoon I had a wedding to get home to! I already had a very small window of time to make it to the wedding of my dear friends Alison and Nick, and this flight delay was definitely making me sweat.

As soon as my feet were back on Denver soil, I hopped in a cab: 1:00pm Saturday. I had exactly an hour and a half to make it home, shower, change, and drive to Colorado Springs to make it to a 4:00 wedding. I arrived at 3:55. Whew! At that point, I think my body was running off of pure adrenaline because I had been going basically 34hours worth of time through 4 airports, 3 airplanes, and 2 countries topped off with a 60 mile drive at the end, off of a few hours of crappy napping anywhere my little head could rest! I was ready to be in a sleep coma!

I felt like those last few hours of my first day back were an out of body experience. Wasn't it just the day before, that I was ice-hiking up a volcano, and drinking wine with friends from Argentina and New Zealand? And then suddenly I found myself on New Years Eve and back in a place where nothing's changed. I have to say, I wasn't very thrilled about being back, and I was longing to be back in the place where time moved slowly, the days had 16 hours of daylight, and life was more about the experiences than the materialistic things. I got caught up on some sleep over the next few days and quickly settled back into my normal routine.  I've been home for a month now, and as I reflect back on this amazing adventure, I feel so much happiness and accomplishment, but most of all, appreciation.

I am already dreaming about my next international trip! I am so immensely blessed to be able to go and experience life in such a big way. I have such a happy heart, and I know that bigger and better things are in store for my little self. I have such a renewed sense of excitement and zeal for this life, and I've been happier than I've been in ages. I love this life and the people in it. Thank you all for supporting me, and being interested in my stories of travel and life. It encourages me to keep on keepin on. Unfortunately for me, it's January 31st...and I have to wait until next year to get my 2 weeks paid vacation days....haha. So until then, let the daydreaming and planning continue! And friends, that means that you have a year to save and plan too.....if anyone wants to tag along on my next trip, I can tell you already. It's gonna be awesome.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Chile Chile Chile [Part II]



















I had only been in South America for a few hours by this point, and I didn't really get an opportunity to rest when I got to Talca. As soon as the taxi took us straight to Megan's apartment, she was ready to begin our adventure! I think it was about 3:00 local time by this point. I freshened up as best as I could and we went for a stroll down to the promenade area. We walked around the shops for a bit, and then happened upon a lovely little cafe' called La Papa. We perused the dessert window and decided upon the most decadent chocolate and tres-leches cakes, that we shared as we re-connected over cafe' Americano's. It was such a lovely afternoon! At 6:00 that night, Megan's friend, Stephina, came over to bake Christmas cookies. You see, Megan still had two days left at work doing teacher training, and the cookies were to be taken for one of the team-building activities the next day. We munched on snacks and laughed and chatted over many bottles of wine, and I was delighted to be among such great company. We finally turned in for bed around 11 (the sun does not set until well after 10pm) and I enjoyed a perfect, dreamless, restful sleep.
Our wonderful little cafe, La Papa







The best wine I've ever tasted, straight from its native land.

The next morning I woke up with Megan and we enjoyed a cup of coffee before she had to leave for work. I admit that I did go back to bed for a few more moments of precious sleep, before I was fully up and ready for the day. I spent the rest of the morning exploring Talca. I walked up and down the promenade, and took in the sights of this quaint little city. Talca was one of the hardest-hit cities of a great 8.8 magnitude earthquake that hit Chile in 2010. Most of the buildings are still in total devastation. It was raining off and on, and I hesitantly took a few photos of the town and wandered in and out of shops before retiring to the same cafe of the previous day, for a nice coffee break.


I ordered my usual Americano. This was a time where I learned a very great lesson..... My beautiful espresso and water arrived, and I should have just enjoyed the hot beverage as it was served to me. But I was over confident in asking as best as I could, if it would be possible to have some cream or milk to add. Well, the poor waitress did not understand my request and was clearly upset as she took away my drink and returned a few moments later with a cafe con leche, or a latte as we know them. I felt horrible! And I soon learned, that it is not common to drink coffee with cream or milk as it is here in the US. And from that point forward, cafe con leche, was my drink of choice. After I had settled up with the bill, I was out for round 2.

By this time, it was pouring rain. I had no choice but to buy an umbrella from the street vendor, where I had my first clear understanding of the money via verbal communication. The umbrella had cost mil-quiniento. I did not understand this, and I had quickly drawn a small crowd of curious women, as the vendor graciously tried to demonstrate mil-quiniento by showing me the green bill (un mil) and demonstrating cutting the bill in half....(quineinto = 500). Light-bulb moment!! Ah-ha! Mil-quiniento! I was so proud of my purchase of the umbrella, and the women on the street cheered me on in my victorious purchase :) I walked around and repeated 'mil-quiniento' over and over in my head, (and of course, wrote that one down in my note-pad!).  Feeling more confident, I wandered over to another vendor and admired some beautiful wallets. I asked, "Cuanto cuesta esto?" "Tres mil" (or tre mil, as it sounded...Chileans speak very very fast, and they do not enunciate their words and often drop off beginnings and endings of words....very difficult to understand.) I pretended to continue looking at the merchandise while I was really processing in my head. I slowly offered the exact amount of money and he handed me the wallet and said "Gracia! Chau, hija!" I smiled at him and at myself for another successful exchange. I was beginning to get my bearings!! I wandered around the park and snapped a couple more photos, before turning back to the apartment to meet Megan for lunch. I felt like a kid on the first day of school, eager to run back and tell Megan everything I learned that day! haha. We enjoyed a nice little lunch with some of her friends, and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing. Later that evening, we found a cute little chocolateria and finished the night with some rootop sunset-gazing with what else? Wine.
 
This looks like a house....on the other side of the door was an open lot.

Apparently the ass is free in Talca.


I loved riding the city bus!

Beautiful Talca sunset



Friday morning, we were up and at em, and I joined Megan on her last day of work. I went to the University for her last day of class, in which her students had all prepared a nice little presentation/final project. It was fun chatting with the locals and feeling so welcome. That afternoon, we did a little more shopping on the Alameda. This was a really fun afternoon, as the local vendors were really excited to meet us and talk to us! One of the girl's was named Belen, and I was really excited to tell her that my grandmother's name is Belen! She was really cute and excited to meet me, and wanted me to add her on Facebook. Haha!

My new friend, Belen

So we shopped around a bit longer, and later on found a great little outdoor pub. Megan, Stephina, and I enjoyed a couple good beers and we shared a completo. Completos are very common in Chile, and you can order them almost anywhere! It's basically a hotdog smothered in mayonnaise and guacamole! It was definitely something I would never order, but it was surprisingly quite good! After all, it was Dec. 21, and the end of the world, so why not go out with a completo?

We finished up our beers and said our goodbye's to both Stephina and Talca, then Megan and I grabbed our bags and were ready for the next part of our adventure to begin! We had tickets for the 9:30pm bus out of Talca to Puerto Montt, where we would meet up with another friend, Andrea the next morning. We made it to the bus station just in time! We found our seats, and were horrified to discover that we were in the very back of the bus next to the banos, and worse, next to a gang of disgusting, filthy, smelly, and obnoxiously rude men. It was a looooooooong 12 hours. We were finally able to fall asleep amidst the cat calls and the offending smells of the toilet and feet of our neighbors. But it was a rough start to the morning as I was trying my hardest not to vomit from the hot stench and motion sickness. But right on schedule, we arrived in Puerto Montt and were welcomed by Andrea... and sheets of rain.

Talca --> Puerto Montt
[Andrea is our new friend from New Zealand. She met Megan while they were both living in Arica (Northern Chile). Andrea is a primary school teacher, and was sent to Chile for one year to study Spanish, so that she could go back and teach. Wow! Talk about a great job! So when Andrea learned that Megan and I would be traveling around the South, she met up with us after her vacation in Patagonia, and we enjoyed the rest of my time in Chile, together!]

So after the long bus ride, we paid to use the bathroom, and found a little cafe where we enjoyed our morning coffee and donuts while trying to decide what to do and where to go from there....as all our our plans had involved being outdoors. We settled on getting to our rental car and driving to our next destination, Puerto Varas.

Puerto Varas was the most lovely town, and I felt like I was in a completely different world. It was absolutely picturesque, and right on the water of Lago Llanquihue. Apparently the town has a beautiful backdrop of mountains and volcanoes just beyond the lake, but sadly we were never able to see it with all the clouds and the rain. We didn't really know what to do so until we came up with a game plan, we found a wonderful little cafe called Cassi's, and enjoyed more chocolate cake and coffee. It was wonderful.  We walked around the little town markets and bought some gifts. There was still plenty of day left ahead, so feeling revived from our snack, we got in the car, and spent the rest of the day driving around the lake and stopped at little towns along the way for, what else? More coffee and dessert! After we checked into our beautiful hotel, we found the pool and sauna. We ended the evening with dinner and wine in the hotel lounge that overlooked the water. We decided that this was definitely the life:  vacationing in beautiful South America, eating dessert, drinking coffee and wine to our heart's content, and relaxing in the spa.  It was definitely very easy to get used to!


Making the loop between the lake and hidden volcanoes.



The rainy beach from Frutillar

Traffic jam.
The view from our lovely hotel in Puerto Varas




The next morning, we wanted to either attempt a hike, or go to the island of Chiloe to see the penguins! Well, thanks to the rain, we didn't get to do either. So we got back in the car and went for another day drive. We attempted to make it to Puyhuey National Park. On our way we had to stop for a bathroom break, and we found this little gem of a cafe located next to an auto museum! We sat next to the fire, and enjoyed our little coffee break while getting to know the owner, Jose. He was such a sweet little man and I think he was happy to have us. 
 

We made it to the National Park, but it was kind of a bust. We were able to get a few pictures of some waterfalls, before being forced back into the car by the rain. It was extremely tempting to just keep on driving east into Argentina, but we were in a rental car, and it we did not have the proper paper work to take the car across the border.  On the way back to Puerto Varas, we stopped at a roadside stand for some local empanadas and cheese. They were quite interesting, and different than I expected them to taste. It was almost like a beef stew-pie. We tried to make the most of our day, but I think we were all getting a little agitated with being trapped in a car so close together for so long.... We eventually made it back to our hotel for naps and alone time; and then finally! There was a break in the clouds!

and you think gas is expensive in the US...
Puerto Varas
I was very curious to what was on the other side of this wall.....
....and this is what I found. Beauty.


Megan and I took full advantage of the blue sky and went on the most glorious run! (I'm guessing it was about 5-6miles.) We found this wonderful hidden trail that followed the railroad tracks for a bit, then along the rocky shore of the lake, and then through a beautiful little meadow filled with wildflowers and lavender! I would have given anything to have had my camera with me to capture the beauty that was before us. I don't think anyone besides Megan will ever believe me when I say it is the most beautiful trail I've ever run. But it is definitely a memory that I will keep with me forever. The smells and the sights were as beautiful as it gets, and I'm so happy that I got to enjoy that feeling of wonder and freedom with Megan. That night we went out to a fancy dinner at a lovely little restaurant. I had salmon with lime sauce, and it was the most delectable meal I think I've ever had! Every bite was like butter and and heaven combined into one. We dined for hours on this wonderful feast with copious amounts of wine and dessert. We laughed and chatted, and eventually made the hike in the rain back up the hill to our hotel, in a drunken state of happiness.
Enjoying our wonderful exquisite meal.

 

 The next morning, Christmas Eve day, we packed up and checked out of our beautiful hotel for the next phase of the trip. Up north to Valdivia. We enjoyed the views of the drive, and sang aloud to Christmas Carols in Spanish. As we exited off the main toll road onto the next highway, we saw a pedestrian with a pack crossing the road. Megan asked her where she was going, and likewise, she was headed to Valdivia. Our hitchhiker's name was Anabel. She was from France, and she was slowly backpacking her way all across South America. I was fascinated by this young woman's bravery. I sat in the front seat and smiled to myself as I took in the connections happening in our little car: Two girls from America who met over beers in Fort Collins, CO, a school teacher from New Zealand, and a brave young girl from France out to conquer the world; all away from our families on Christmas, together in a little car, out to seek the thrill of life.  Life is really pretty incredible and I'm so happy I am blessed to be alive to experience it all, and meet such wonderful people along the way. Once we got to Valdivia, Anabel was on her way, and the three of us found our next hotel.
 





Chau, chau, Anabel! God bless you in your travles!




 
















It goes without saying, our next hotel was quite the opposite of our resort we had be staying in the last couple nights. Our hotel reminded me of the Stanly Hotel from the Shining...only much less beautiful, and in a third world setting....The hallways were empty and dark, there was no wait staff, and every time we tried to find our room we would get lost! It was absolutely creepy. And where we would be spending our Christmas eve. We ventured back out into the rain to try to get a decent meal and a couple adult beverages. The town was in an obvious frenzy in preparation to shut down for Christmas but we were able to find an open market to get some food for our Christmas meal. Ours consisted of cantaloupe, prosciutto, olives, bread, and a tomato/avocado salad. Oh yeah, and three bottles of wine. We layed in our little twin beds all in a row, watch Mama Mia on cable, and feasted.  It was one of the best Christmas eve's I've ever had. 

The lovely view from our room
The creepy bartender making crappy Pisco Sours
Yes, let me just venture down this dark hallway.














Valdivia in the rain
Andrea wishing away the rain.

Christmas morning, we woke up to find that Santa had found us even in our creepy little hotel! We exchanged presents over coffee, and checked out of that hotel as quickly as possible! And..... It was NOT RAINING!!
Our Christmas Eve meal :)

Yay, Christmas presents! Thanks, friends :)
Merry Christmas, Megan! Love you!
Our Christmas Coffee and Chirimoya. (I'll explain the instant coffee in another section...)

We went to the feria where we walked around the marketplace and watched the sea lions & seagulls. We were enjoying the sunshine, when a drunk man wandered over to me (mind you, at like 10am) gave me a can of beer, and wanted to chat! I did my best to oblige in a conversation with my improving Spanish, but this drunk man started to get a little to fresh with me. So Megan, in her perfect Spanish, told him to get lost. We then wandered over to a wonderful little man who was a keeper of pigeons. He reminded me so much of the homeless lady in Central Park in Home Alone 2, who would call the pigeons by name with birdseed! He was such a cute little old guy, and happy to chat with us. It was a fun morning. We then made it to what we had been long waiting for: The Kunstmanm Cerveceria! This lovely place was where we had our Christmas meal of craft beer and Chilean-German food. After getting our fill, it was back on the road again (don't worry, we had a sober driver!) And alas, on to the final leg of our trip, Pucon. 

Valdivia by day!
The markets at the feria
Haha I love this shot. Those creatures are so strange...
my drunken admirer. (and it's also becoming evident I've been enjoying the baked goods....)
This little man was so lovely.

Hey, Dad, look at me!
So sweet :)
Empty streets on Christmas day
The Kunstmann Cerveceria!
enjoying our Christmas beer :)


Back on the road....on to the next chapter of the most epic roadtrip of my life.
Next Stop: Pucon!


* for your listening pleasure :) Feliz Navidad!